incubazione uova di cigno

buongiorno a tutti, ho provato a cercare nel forum ma sembra che nessuno abbia mai trattato questo argomento.

SI POSSONO INCUBARE LE UOVA DI CIGNO?!?

ho una coppia che depone ogni anno 4 o 5 uova ma senza un buon esito.. e' nato una sola volta un cignetto che e' morto la settimana dopo..

Il problema principale? predatori (faina-martora-volpe) ma soprattutto il freddo. Vivendo a piu' di mille metri nel periodo della cova queste povere bestiole possono subirsi anche qualche veloce nevicata.. e anche se non nevica, ci sono temperature non molto confortevoli..

CHE FACCIO? INCUBO? ..e poi come gli svezzo?

non ne so molto ma non si possono allevare piccoli di cigno perchè nelle prime fasi solo i genitori possono nutrirli, sentiamo chi ne sa più di me

grazie della risposta, non credo che i cignetti abbiano bisogno di cure diverse rispetto ai loro simili quali oche ed anatre.. l'unica mia perplessita' e' per il nuoto.. ma probabilmente c'e' molto di piu'.

SPERIAMO QUALCUNO CI FACCIA SAPERE QUALCHE COSA DI PIU'...

leggiti la discussione dal titolo Cigni, viene spiegato perchè non si possono incubare uova di cigno

come spesso accade i forum italofoni sono pieni di "praticoni" che parlano non per esperienza diretta o acquisita su testi seri e scientifici ma per sentito dire, o letto in giro.

copio incollo due risposte di un forum anglofono, per chi volesse il testo in italiano usi google translator

1: incubazione artificiale
If you found the egg and the mother had abandoned it, it is highly unlikely that you will incubate to fruition. We have learned the hard way that when a swan abandons the egg it is for a good reason and MOTHER KNOWS BEST! We have had eggs explode and cause such a mess and lingering odor that we have since been advocates of not trying the process.

Secondly, if the egg is viable, you will need to turn the egg regularly 1/4 of a turn intermittantly. You have to be extremely careful to keep the egg in the same position and with limited jostling so that you do not detach the embryo or otherwise, you will kill the egg. This process is why professional breeders employ very expensive rotating incubators with controlled humidity and temperature regulators.

Lastly, if the egg is successfully hatched, you will have a swan that imprints on humans, meaning that the swan will think it is a human and will have major difficulty in trying to be a swan. You will probably have to keep the swan indoors or penned up the rest of his/her life to protect it from being too friendly with people who may try to steal or harm it and predators. We have heard of cases where imprinted swans have walked right up to foxes, domestic dogs, bobcats, etc., losing their life because they are so trusting. So, with this in mind for the well-being of the bird, we would advocate not trying to incubate the egg.

2: come nutrire i pulcini
You want to feed the cygnet a mixture of poultry layer pellets and cracked corn. The cracked corn may need to be crushed a little more so that it is small enough for the cygnet to eat. Poultry layer pellets provide micronutrients such as calcium, magnesium, etc. The corn provides Vitamin A a much needed vitamin or the cygnet could be neurologically affected. The corn also acts as a filler and will make the cygnet fill full. You also need to provide the cygnet with lettuce (romaine or iceberg) finely chopped as supplemental vegetation.

The pellets and corn should be submerged in water so that it is the consistency of mush. The swan must have water to digest to prevent choking, so the mixture must be rather watery. The food should be placed in a pan with a zero entry so the bird does not injure its legs or feet trying to get into the water. Cygnets will try to climb into the watery food. Use a paint rolling pan which has an incline. Place the food in a clean rolling pan, line the bottom of the pan with a towel to cover the ramp. Fill water over the food inside the pan. This will allow traction for the bird to enter and exit the water while feeding. The smaller the cygnet, the more easily it will be able to float (swim) while eating. The food and water should be changed frequently as cygnets will defecate in the food. The cygnet should also be cleaned and dried after eating to promote preening and ensure that it stays warm.

When keeping the cygnet, you will need to provide it bath time, but only in small increments and never unattended as its feathers are not repellent thus causing the cygnet to drown. The cygnet should be allowed to enter and access water with a zero entry ramp. Meaning, there should not be any steep climbing by the cygnet. Slick, wet and slippery surfaces can cause great injury to the cygnet's leg or feet which may require euthanasia if the bird cannot use its feet or legs to enter or exit water. Surfaces should be normal dirt, straw or grass. Do not use pine needles as the resin can damage a swan's feathers.

Do not use any asphalt or rocky surfaces as this can also cause a condition in the bird's feet called bumblefoot which can become infected. Again, use smooth, non-slick surfaces. Even indoor/outdoor mats that look like grass can be used. They will need to be cleaned frequently, but they will provide the bird with traction. Again, you can use a painter's pan (for rolling brushes) for swimming and feeding. Cygnets must be dried with a towel and observed to see if it preens itself.

If you are keeping a cygnet in a box, plastic or cardboard, the bottom of the box should be lined with towels with a sheet placed over the top of the towels. You want something that will allow the bird to keep warm while also providing traction. But, towels can bundle and strangle or suffocate the young bird, so you must check on it frequently.

A non-preening, non-eating or non-pooping bird, or one with labored breathing indicates that there is a problem and a veterinarian should be immediately consulted. Cygnets are pretty self-sufficient when it comes to feeding, but any change in their behavior should be of concern. Good luck and let us know how the cygnet is doing.